Thursday, April 12, 2012


Warnemünde is not only the harbor for Hansetown Rostock, but a graceful old Baltic Sea resort. Thanks to the former GDR's lack of money, none of the nice old houses was torn down to make place to modern nondescript highrise hotels, like in West Germany.

When I first visited my cousin's family in 1957, houses were grey, with flaking paint, looking more and more dilapidated every year. That changed dramatically after the fall of the wall and the reunion 1989. All houses were fixed-up, by and by.

The yacht pier, exclusively used by communistic party VIPs, was opened to the public, and turned into a fish market.

Lots of smoke shacks on the pier (I never saw so many kinds of smoked fish before), and they even had an open air bakery.

Those naughty boys on the bakery sign are Max and Moritz - characters from the classic German childrens' book.  After sneaking into a bakery, camouflaging themselves with dough, they survive being mistaken for breads and consequently baked.

Eating their way out, and hiding in flour bags, they get nabbed, and their long and successful career as juvenile delinquents ends as - kibbles for miller's geese!

Bakery at the fish market with freshly baked potato carrot breads, in a wood fired oven.

In one of the many waterfront restaurants we had "all-you-can-eat" herring. You can't buy them in Maine, though there are plenty - they all end up at bait for the lobster traps. Much as I like lobster, nothing compares to fresh, pan fried herring with bratkartoffeln.

Easter was cold but sunny, we walked along the Alster - a large, artificial lake in the middle of Hamburg.

We had family dinner overlooking the harbor, where paddle wheel boat "Louisiana" passed by.

On our way back, at Hamburg Airport, we had time for breakfast and were utterly amazed to find this:

A bakery that made everything from the scratch, from organic ingredients, right in Terminal 1!

On the left is a dough divider (for rolls), the glass box is a proofing cabinet.

"Marché Bakery" offers a large selection of breads and pastries. I chose this roll with a twist:

It was as good as it looked like! The best breakfast I ever had in an airport.

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