MALT RYE ROLLS WITH SESAME & PUMPKIN SEEDS

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My first "Equal Opportunity Bread" (see my last post) had to be a batch of rolls. I like having a supply of rolls in my freezer, when we come home from a trip, and want a bread that thaws less sluggish than a large loaf.

So I grabbed one of my most favorite baking books - hey, who said I couldn't include my favorites in my fair baking? - "Brot aus Südtirol". Richard Ploner's breads are all small, mini breads, or rolls. The (professional baker's) reasoning: "They should all have the same size in a mixed bread basket".



This baking book has everything going for it, interesting recipes and appetizing photos. Unfortunately, it has not been translated into English, yet. Because of this sad omission I am happy to be able to translate at least some of its wonderful recipes for English speaking bakers.

The one thing I always change - apart for an adaptation of the ingredients to what is available in the US - are the very short fermentation times. Ploner doesn't retard his doughs, but I do, using either pre-doughs or the Stretch-and-Fold technique (S + F) and I am sure that even these nice breads benefit from it.

The original recipe lists sugar caramel color (15 g) - I didn't have it and didn't see a real need for it, either. Richard Ploner lets you choose between toasted soy flakes and pumpkin seeds - for me a no-brainer, since I love toasted pumpkin seeds, and buy them in bulk. The sesame seeds I toasted, too, to enhance their "nuttiness".

MALZBROT - TYROLEAN MALT RYE ROLLS WITH SESAME AND PUMPKIN SEEDS

    6 g instant yeast (or 9 g active dry)
280 g water, lukewarm
300 g all-purpose flour
100 g medium rye flour
100 g whole wheat flour
    5 g malted barley flour (non diastatic) (1 1/2 tsp)
    5 g sugar (1 tsp.)
    6 g sesame seeds, toasted (2 tsp.)
  50 g pumpkin seeds, toasted, chopped
    3 g caraway (1 tsp.)
  10 g salt

DAY 1:
1. Dissolve instant yeast in warm water. (Though this is not strictly necessary, it helps with the stretch-and-fold technique.) Mix with other dough ingredients to form a rough ball, 1 - 2 minutes on low speed (or with a wooden spoon). Let dough rest for 5 minutes.

2. Knead on medium-low speed (or by hand) for 2 minutes, adjusting tablespoon-wise with more water, if needed (dough should be a bit sticky). Continue kneading for 4 more minutes, the last 20 seconds at medium-high speed (dough should still be more sticky than tacky).

3. Transfer dough to a lightly oiled work bench, and, with wet or oiled hands, stretch and pat into a rough square, then fold it in thirds like a business letter. Fold it the same way again from the short sides. Tuck sides under dough to shape a ball, and place dough package in oiled bowl, seam side down. Cover, and let rest for 10 minutes.

4. Repeat S & F for 3 more times at 10 minute intervals (total time 40 minutes). After the last fold, place into oiled container, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

DAY 2:
5. Remove dough from refrigerator, it should have doubled in size.

6. Preheat oven to 428ºF/220ºC, including steam pan. Divide dough into 10 equal pieces. Pre-shape into rounds. Cover and let relax for 5 minutes.

7. With both hands, roll rounds into 10-cm/4" long strands, with tapered ends. Place, seam side down, on parchment lined baking sheet. Score lengthwise. Mist with oil spray, cover with plastic foil, and let rolls rise for 45 - 60 minutes, or until they have grown ca. 1 1/2 times their original size.

8. Bake rolls for 12 minutes, steaming with 1 cup of boiling water. Remove steam pan and rotate rolls 180 degrees for even browning. Continue baking for another 13 minutes, until they are golden brown. Leave rolls in switched-off oven with door slightly ajar for 5 more minutes, then let them cool on a wire rack.

Submitted to Yeast Spotting.

A FAIR CHANCE FOR ALL BAKING BOOKS

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Like some teachers have their "pets", I have some favorite baking books that I always turn to when I'm looking for new recipes.

 These books have old envelopes, supermarket receipts, movie tickets, and other odd papers stuck between pages as markers, my own volume/weight conversions (or corrections), and lots of scribbled comments.

And, they are also graded with stars, enthusiastic exclamation marks, or a scathing: "Not that great!"

Then there are The Others, bought or received as presents, that, for some reasons, never captured my attention.

Either because they have no appetizing photos, their layout is too dull, their write-up too boring (yes, I am that shallow!), or I just forgot all about them.

They end up in a dark corner of my bookshelf, forsaken and forlorn, probably hiding treasures that no one will ever know in the Anderson house - and NOBODY CARES!

This shameful negligence has to come to an end - these books are people, too! They, too, deserve a chance to be looked at, taken seriously, and, maybe, supply the next candidate for Karin's Bread Hall of Fame.

So my New Year's Resolution is this Equal Opportunity Pledge -  fair treatment of all my baking books, every one shall have a chance, no more "pet baking", but equal opportunity for all those disadvantaged recipe collections, that never saw the light of my kitchen!


LIST OF "EQUAL OPPORTUNITY BREADS"

Malzbrot - Malt Rye Rolls (Richard Ploner:"Brot aus Südtirol")

Saatenbrot - German Many Seed Bread ("Die besten Rezepte aus der Allgemeinen Bäckerzeitung")









 

Müslibrötchen - Muesli Rolls (Erika Casparek Türkkan et al.:"Brot und Kleingebäck") 

Beer Rye Bread (Bill Middeke:"Baking with the St. Paul Bread Club") 

Country Bread (Jeffrey Hamelman: "Bread")

PENDING: Arkatena Bread (Andrew Whitley: "Bread Matters")

PENDING: French Walnut Bread - Pain au Levain Complet aux Noix (Daniel Leader: "Local Breads")














 PENDING: Camembert-Trauben-Brot - Camembert Grape Bread (Bernd Armbrust: "Brot")

PENDING: Mandel-Vollkorn-Brot - Wheat Almond Bread (Cornelia Zingerling:"Brot backen")

PENDING: Pain au Levain de Sarrasin (Niels Schöner: "Notes From a Floury German Kitchen")












Jan Hedh: Cosa Nostra Bread ("Swedish Breads and Pastry") 
Peter Reinhart: Croissants ("Artisan Bread Every Day")
Fany Gerson: Conchas Blancas ("My Sweet Mexico")
Dan Lepard: Red Wine Loaf with Pine Nuts and Figs ("The Art of The Handmade Bread")
Bauernbrot - Farmers' Loaf ("Brotrezepte aus ländlichen Backstuben")
Vollkorntoastbrot mit Leinsamen - Whole Grain Toast Bread with Flaxseed ("Brot backen - Köstliche Rezepte aus der guten alten Zeit")
E. and J. Wood: Cranberry-Nut Sourdough ("Classic Sourdoughs")
Ute-Marion Wilkesmann: Allerweltsbrötchen - Ordinary Rolls ("Brötchen statt Brot")
Chad Robertson: Basic Country Bread with Sesame ("Tartine")
Rose Levy Beranbaum: Golden Semolina Torpedo - Altamura ("The Bread Bible")
Richard Bertinet: Breton Bread ("Crust")
J. Alford and N. Duguid: Ethiopian Spice Bread ("Flatbreads and Flavors")
R. Topp and A. Riffert: Heilkräuterbrot - Healing Herb Bread ("Vollkornbäckerei zu Hause")

So far, so good. There might be more..... 

OMI'S GERMAN PANCAKES

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Americans like their pancakes big and fluffy, with butter not only in the batter, but, also on top of them. I grew up with thin, crispy German Pfannkuchen, and can't get used to thick, doughy ones.

Though pancakes are, in my opinion, the wrong place to go low fat, I prefer the butter in the skillet, for crisp baking, not melting on top of my pancakes.

The sugary sweet sirup, poured over the stack, was another novelty for me, Germans sprinkle their pancakes with cinnamon sugar, and serve them with fruit compote..

Since the best of all husbands and I love pancakes for brunch, we found a good compromise. 

My Omi was a very good cook

Either I follow my grandmother's Pomeranian recipe, or Richard mixes the contents of some packages, throws an egg in, and dilutes it to Pfannkuchen consistency.

Meanwhile, I grew fond of maple syrup, but I need some tangy fruit sauce to balance its sweetness.

Omi's recipe can serve as base for sweet and savory pancakes.

 I changed it a little bit, adding vanilla extract and substituting some of the white flour with whole wheat, but otherwise it remains:

OMI'S PANCAKES:
(2 - 4 servings, depending on your appetite)

100 g all-purpose flour
 25 g whole wheat pastry flour (or more AP)
 2 eggs, separated
125 g buttermilk
1/8 tsp. baking powder*)
1 pinch salt
1 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. vanilla extract
sparkling water, for adjustments

Add-ins
berries, banana or apple pieces (optional)
almond slices or chopped nuts (optional)
 
butter, for baking

How to make:
In large bowl, mix flour, baking powder, egg yolks, buttermilk, salt, sugar and vanilla extract until well blended. Adjust with sparkling water, until mixture is fairly thin, like crêpe batter. Fold in add-ins.

In separate bowl, whisk egg whites until soft peaks form. Fold into flour mixture.

Whipped white makes the pancakes light

Heat heavy skillet over medium heat. Melt 1 tbsp. butter, and, with a ladle or large spoon, pour batter for 1 large or 3 small pancakes into pan. When edges start to brown, after 2-3 minutes, flip pancakes over (adding more butter to pan if necessary,) and bake until they are golden brown. Place on warmed plate and keep warm.

Repeat, until all batter is used. Serve with maple syrup, or sprinkle with sugar. We like them with blueberry or other fruit compote.

Savory Pancakes:
Substitute 1 tbsp. grated Parmesan for the sugar and vanilla extract. Fold in cubed ham, grated cheese, chopped fresh herbs or other savory add-ins.


*)My grandmother didn't use any baking powder - the whipped egg whites and the sparkling water can do the (not so) heavy lifting quite well. If you leave it out, let the batter rest for 30 minutes, before folding in the egg whites.

(Post re-written and updated 2/26/14)

PAIN AU LEVAIN WITH FARRO

Farro, or Emmer, an ancient kind of wheat, is popular in some parts of Italy, and, ever since I purchased Maria Speck's wonderful book "Ancient Grains in Modern Meals", also in our family.

Creamy farro with honey roasted grapes became our new breakfast favorite that even my picky, normally no-breakfast-type son wolfed eagerly down:
http://daleydish.com/blog/2011/03/creamy-farro-with-honey-roasted-grapes.html

With this delicious experience in mind, I felt inspired to come up with a recipe for a bread with farro. I wanted a straightforward bread, with sourdough, but not too tangy, to showcase the farro. I used whole farro kernels that I ground in my little hand cranked mill (with the additional "benefit" of a good arm muscle workout).

I am very happy with the result, a pleasantly mild, nutty tasting bread.  


PAIN AU LEVAIN WITH FARRO

LEVAIN
1. step
20 g wheat or rye mother starter (100% hydration), OR 16 g of apple or raisin yeast water
8 g water, lukewarm
20 g bread flour

2. step
42 g levain 1. step (all)
16 g water, lukewarm
42 g bread flour

3. step
100 g levain 2. step (all)
100 g water, lukewarm
200 g bread flour

SOAKER
314 g farro flour
236 g water
6 g salt

FINAL DOUGH
all soaker
all levain
314 g bread flour
6 g salt
202 g water
rolled wheat or other flakes for topping

DAY 1:
Mix soaker ingredients, let sit at room temperature.

For the 3-step levain: mix ingredients for mother, and proof in a warm place (like oven with light on) for ca. 6 hours. Repeat procedure with next two steps (chef and levain). Refrigerate overnight.

DAY 2:
Remove levain from refrigerator 2 hours before using.

 Cut levain in small pieces (to make mixing easier). Place all ingredients in mixing bowl. Mix on low speed until dough comes together, 1 - 2 minutes. Knead on medium low speed for 4 minutes (dough should be very tacky, bordering on sticky). Let dough rest for 5 minutes, then resume kneading for 1 minute more (dough should be still very tacky, if not sticky).

Place dough in lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rest in a warm place for 90 minutes. Transfer to lightly floured work surface, and, (with your hands from from the middle of the dough to the sides), push out air, then stretch and fold. Place folded dough with seam down back in bowl. Let rest for another 80 minutes.

Push out air again, let dough relax for 10 minutes more.

Divide into 2 equal pieces, shape into boules, place seam-side down on parchment lined baking sheet, mist with water and sprinkle with rolled wheat. Mist breads with oil spray, cover, and proof for 75 - 90 minutes in warm place, until grown to 1 1/2 times their original size. (Preheat oven after 30 minutes.)

Preheat oven to 250ºC/485ºF, including steam pan.

Place breads in oven, steaming with 1 cup of boiling water, and bake for 5 minutes, then reduce heat to 200ºC/400ºF and bake for 15 minutes. Rotate breads 180 degrees, remove steam pan and continue baking for another 20 minutes (internal temperature 98ºC/209ºF). Leave for 10 minutes in switched-off oven with door slightly ajar. Then cool on wire rack.

A pleasantly nutty tasting bread

SIMIT - TÜRKISCHES SESAMBROT

Simit, ein ringförmiges Sesambrot, ist überall in der Türkei zu finden, ebenso wie in anderen Ländern des Mittleren Ostens und im Balkan. Je nach Region, kommt es in verschiedenen Grössen vor, und kann sich auch in Kruste und Krume sehr unterscheiden. Einige Simit, mit Apfelsirup und Öl zubereitet, sind eher weich, und süsser, andere dagegen schlicht und knusprig.

Nachdem ich mein erstes Simit genossen hatte, wollte ich natürlich probieren, selbst welches zu backen. Ich schaute mir eine Menge Rezepte an - glücklicherweise stellen viele türkische Frauen ihre Rezepte in deutsche Kochwebsites.

Einige dieser Beschreibungen waren für einen Anfänger ein bisschen zu vage (wie Omas: "Nimm eine Handvoll Mehl, und gib ein paar Eier dazu"), und andere genauer. Sie waren alle sehr verschieden, daher entschied ich mich für eine schlichte Version, wie das Simit, das ich in Delmenhorst gegessen hatte.

Das Ergebnis war wirklich sehr gelungen - mein Mann und ich fanden die knusprige Sesamkruste toll!

Zutaten:
500 g Weizenmehl Typ 450
5 g Trockenhefe (oder 15 g Frischhefe mit entsprechender Vorbereitung)
165 g Wasser, lauwarm
125 g Jogurt, lauwarm
7 g Salz

1 Eiweiss, mit 1 EL Wasser gemischt, zum Bestreichen
Sesamsaat zum Bestreuen


Zubereitung:
VORTAG:
1. Jogurt mit Wasser verrühren und die Trockenhefe darin auflösen. Alle anderen Teigzutaten hinzufügen, und auf niedriger Stufe (oder mit Holzlöffel) vermischen, bis alles Mehl durchfeuchtet ist. Teig 5 Minuten ruhen lassen.

2. Auf mittlerer Stufe (oder mit der Hand) 2 Minuten kneten, dabei, falls nötig, etwas mehr Wasser oder Mehl hinzufügen. Teig soll geschmeidig und sehr haftend, fast klebrig sein. Weitere 4 Minuten lang kneten. Teig soll immer noch ziemlich haftend sein.

3. Teig auf eine leicht bemehlte Arbeitsfläche legen. Mit nassen oder eingeölten Händen sanft in ein ungefähres Viereck ziehen. Rück- und Vorderseite wie einen Geschäftsbrief übereinander falten, dann rechte und linke Seite ebenso dehnen und falten.

4. Teigpaket hochnehmen, Ränder nach unten zusammennehmen, dass sich ein Ball formt, und mit der Naht nach unten in eine eingefettete Schüssel legen. Zugedeckt 10 Minuten ruhen lassen.

5. Dieses Dehnen und Falten 3 x wiederholen, mit jeweils 10 Minuten Pause dazwischen. Nach dem letzten Falten Teig in einen eingefetteten Container legen, gut verschliessen und über Nacht in den Kühlschrank stellen.


BACKTAG:
6. Teig 2 Stunden vor Gebrauch zum Aufwärmen aus dem Kühlschrank nehmen.

7. In 8 gleichgrosse Stücke teilen. Zuerst Bälle formen, dann mit den Händen zu 30 cm langen Strängen ausrollen (wenn der Teig zu elastisch ist, jeweils 5 Minuten ruhen lassen). Stränge zu Ringen formen, dabei die Enden gut zusammenpressen. Auf ein mit Backpapier ausgelegtes Blech legen.

8. Ofen auf 225 C vorheizen (eine feuerfeste grosse Schale zum Dämpfen miterhitzen). Teigringe mit Eiweiss bestreichen und mit Sesam bestreuen. Mit Sprayöl einsprühen, mit Plastikfolie abdecken und ca. 1 Stunde lang gehen lassen, oder so lange, bis sie sich beinahe verdoppelt haben.

9. Simits in die Mitte des Ofens stellen, dabei 1 Tasse kochendes Wasser in die Dampfschale giessen. 7 Minuten lang backen, dann Blech um 180 Grad drehen, und die Dampfschale entfernen. Weitere 8 Minuten backen, bis die Brote goldbraun sind.

10. Auf einem Kuchengitter abkühlen lassen.


Wer das Brot etwas weicher mag, kann 2 EL Olivenöl und 1 TL Zucker in den Teig geben.

Adaptiert von Merosh's Simit-Rezept in www.kochbar.de

SIMIT - TURKISH SESAME BREAD

Ring shaped sesame simit is very common bread in Turkey, as well as in other Middle Eastern countries and the Balkans. It comes in larger and smaller sizes, and, also varies in crunchiness and chewiness, depending on the region. Some are softer, made with apple syrup and olive oil, and some are crisp and lean.

After having my first simit, I wanted, of course, to try my hand in it. I studied a lot of recipes - fortunately many Turkish women post in German cooking websites. Some of those descriptions were a bit too vague for a newbie (like Grandmother's: "Take a handful of flour, and then put some eggs in"). They also varied greatly.

In the end I decided on a lean, crisp version, like the wonderful simit I got as a gift from a Turkish baker, when I admired her beautiful display at a Turkish bakery in Delmenhorst, Germany.

I tweaked the recipe a bit, working the dough with stretch and fold, plus a slow cold fermentation overnight, and the result was really nice - my husband and I loved the sesame crunch!

Braided, twisted or straight - Simits are good!

SIMIT - TURKISH SESAME BREAD (adapted from Merosh/kochbar.de)

500 g Italian 00 flour (or unbleached pastry flour)
4 g instant yeast
190 g water, lukewarm
125 g yogurt, lukewarm
7 g salt
19 g olive oil (optional -  I used it)

Topping:
1 egg white, mixed with 1 tbsp. water, for brushing
sesame seeds, for sprinkling


DAY 1:
Mix together yogurt and water, and stir in instant yeast, until dissolved. Add all other dough ingredients, and mix at low speed (or with wooden spoon) until all flour is hydrated. Let dough rest for 5 minutes.

Knead at medium-low speed (or with hands) for 2 more minutes, adjusting with a little more water or flour, if needed. Dough should be supple and very tacky, bordering on sticky. Resume kneading for another 4 minutes. Dough should still be tacky.

Transfer to an oiled work surface. With oiled hands, gently extend into a rough square. Stretch and fold back and front side like a business envelope, then, also left and right side.

Pick up dough package, tuck sides under to form a ball, and place, seam-side down, into an oiled bowl. Cover, and let rest for 10 minutes.

Repeat these stretches and folds 3 more times, at 10 minute intervals. After last fold, place dough into oiled container with lid, and refrigerate overnight.

DAY 2:
Remove dough from refrigerator 2 hours before using.

First shape dough pieces into rolls, then roll into strands

Divide dough into 8 equal pieces. First shape into rolls, then, with your hands, roll into 12-14"/30-35 cm strands (if dough resists, let relax for 5 minutes, before continuing).

Shape strands into rings, twisting them if you like, pressing ends together to seal. (Or, alternatively, braid two longer strands, and then shape into a ring.) Place on parchment lined baking sheet.

Place simits on parchment lined baking sheet

Preheat oven to 437ºF/225º C, including steam pan.

Brush dough rings with egg white, and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Spray with oil spray, cover with plastic wrap. Let rise for ca. 1 hour, or until they have grown to almost double in size.

Bake simits for 7 minutes, steaming with 1 cup boiling water. Rotate baking sheet 180 degrees, remove steam pan, and continue baking for another 8 minutes, or until breads are golden brown.

Let breads cool on wire rack.

It is necessary to use a low protein flour, like the German type 450 or Italian 00. American unbleached pastry flour would be a good substitute - all-purpose flour has too much gluten. 

Beautiful, appetizing display at a Turkish bakery in Delmenhorst/Germany

Post updated: 8/16/14

Turkish Delight - Türkischer Honig

When I visited my cousin Uta in Delmenhorst/Germany, we went into a Turkish bakery with the most beautiful display I've ever seen. Everything was made on the premises, you could see the oven and the work bench, and a wonderful buttery aroma filled the air.
To make a choice of the enticing selection of baked goodies was really hard, we decided on some Börek with cheese and spinach filling, and, also, picked some sweet pastry for dessert.
I asked the owner to allow me to take some pictures, because everything looked so nice. She was very pleased. I also wanted to buy a Simit, I had heard about this Turkish sesame bread, but never had one. She very graciously gave me one for free, having me choose between a lean version (hanging on a rack from the wall), or a sweeter kind of Simit (in the display left). I expressed my gratitude and took the lean one.
We enjoyed our Turkish lunch on the porch, watching "Egbert", the robotic lawn mower (a cousin of "Roomba", the vacuum cleaner robot) busily scuttling around, like a large, grass chewing beetle.
Everything tasted good, but the hit, even though I usually don't like it very sweet, was the pastry - death by Baklava!

Als ich meine Kusine Uta in Delmenhorst besuchte, gingen wir in eine türkische Bäckerei mit der schönsten Auslage, die ich je gesehen hatte. Alles wurde vor Ort hergestellt, man konnte den Backofen und die Arbeitsbank sehen, und es roch appetitanregend nach Butter.
Es war wirklich schwer, sich angesichts dieser verführerischen Auswahl von Backwaren zu entscheiden, wir wählten Börek mit Käse- und Spinatfüllung, und nahmen als Dessert auch etwas von dem süssen Gebäck mit.
Ich fragte die Besitzerin, ob ich ein paar Fotos machen könnte, denn alles sähe so hübsch aus. Sie war sehr erfreut. Ich wollte auch ein Simit kaufen, ich hatte von diesem türkischen Sesambrot gehört, aber noch nie eins gegessen. Sie gab mir freundlicherweise eins als Geschenk, und ich konnte zwischen einer einfacheren Version (die an der Wand aufgehängt waren) und einer süssen Simit-Variante (in der Auslage links) wählen. Ich bedankte mich und nahm das einfachere Brot.
Wir genossen unser türkisches Mittagessen auf der Terrasse, und sahen dabei "Egbert", dem Rasenmäher-Roboter zu (einem Cousin von "Roomba", dem Staubsaugroboter), wie er emsig wie ein grosser, grasfressender Käfer umherfuhr.
Alles schmeckte gut, aber, obwohl ich normalerweise sehr Süsses nicht mag, war das süsse Gebäck der Hit: Tod durch Baklava!